Au départ, ce raid devait se faire avec deux machines mais, à une semaine du départ, la société qui devait nous prêter les quads, nous a demandé de prendre un stock de pièces détachées -non reprises- pour une valeur de 1340 euro par Quad (au départ, elle demandait 300 euro…). Elle demandait une caution pour les deux machines : un polaris 330 et un Kawa 250 (au départ cela devait être deux polaris). De plus, nous partions avec un mécano de cette société que nous rémunérions. Devant un tel dépassement de budget, il était impossible de joindre les deux bouts. Philippe LECADRE, directeur de l’agence Papavelo, avec lequel nous avons monté le projet depuis un an a décidé d’acheter un quad. Nous sommes donc arrivés à Tana ou un quad Polaris 300 flambant neuf nous attendait (nous le soupçonnons de l’avoir acheté pour aller chercher sa baguette le matin) Nous étions donc enfin à Tana à J – 1.
Visite des Ets « Henri Fraise « qui nous apprend que le quad n’est pas un 33O mais un 300. Visite également du magasin de motos, « Traces » pour remercier François Serrano, le patron pour ses précieux conseils. Une journée de derniers préparatifs et de repos après deux jours de voyage (Merci à Flaubert, du comptoir des Phares à Boyardville pour son hospitalité lors de notre passage à Paris)
JOUR 1 (115 km) 27/09 TANANARIVE ANDRANOMIADY
Départ de Tananarive a 8 heures. Apres une quinzaine de kilomètres de goudron, nous avons traversé le marché artisanal de la Digue,et quitté la route pour entamer la piste. La première journée fut une mise en forme avec une prise en main de la machine sur quelques pistes caillouteuses roulantes. A midi nous avons déjeuné à Manalalondo (pique-nique). L’après-midi la piste était plutôt sablonneuse (fèche-fèche). Il y avait beaucoup de vent. Le soir, nous avons dormi à Andranomiady en bivouac. Nuit un peu fraîche. Ambiance sereine entourés de tous les enfants du village
JOUR 2 (105 km) ANDRANOMIADY ANTSIRABE
Départ à 8 heures d’Andranomiady pour Antafofo. Toujours des pistes caillouteuses avec un terrain cassant et quelques bourbiers de sable blanc. Nous avons déjeuné à Faratsiho et dormi à Antsirabé au Green Hôtel. Resto le soir au Pousse-pousse. Dom est satisfait de la machine, elle a du couple et de la reprise. C’est une nerveuse, à l’image de son pilote
JOUR 3 (97 km) ANTSIRABE FANDRIANA
Départ à 9 heures. Nous avons pique-niqué dans la forêt aux alentours de Sahanivotry. Toujours des pistes roulantes avec du fèche-fèche. Le soir nous avons dormi à Fandriana à l’hôtel Malala. Nous avons laissé les véhicules dehors avec les bagages en payant un gardien pour la nuit. Le lendemain, un bidon d’essence avait disparu : le gardien nous a dit qu’il avait gardé le devant du véhicule mais pas le derrière… Le problème est qu’il est difficile de trouver de l’essence sans plomb à Mada et que le quad fonctionne au sans plomb.
JOUR 4 (69 km) FANDRIANA RANOMENA
Départ de Fandriana à 6 h 30. Nous avons pique-niqué à Imady. Toujours des pistes roulantes jusqu’en milieu d’après-midi.Dès que nous avons attaqué la forêt, les premières complications sont apparues. Le 4X4 s’est enlisé dans un bourbier et nous avons mis plus de deux heures pour le sortir. Des habitants de Ranomena ; parmi eux, d’anciens porteurs de Philippe ; passaient par là nous ont aidé à sortir le véhicule qui était posé sur la terre et les cailloux. Nous n’étions pas au bout de nos surprises… Nous avons continué à rouler pendant une dizaine de kilomètres avec quelques malgaches qui étaient montés sur le pare-chocs du véhicule. Dom de son côté emmenait quatre malgache sur le quad . En entrant dans la forêt, le 4X4 ne pouvait plus progresser. Derrière nous, les « gasy » qui n’avaient pas pu monter sur le 4X4 ou le quad et qui avaient couru derrière nous étaient déjà là… Quelle santé !!! Nous avons donc déchargé les bagages du véhicule et donné aux porteurs le nécessaire afin de pouvoir assurer l’assistance de Dom avec les VTT (tentes, matelas, couverture, nourriture, eau potable, etc…).
Quelle surprise lorsque nous nous sommes trouvés devant des ornières qui sont larges et hautes comme des camions : ce sont les seuls véhicules qui peuvent passer dans ces bourbiers. Ils sont équipés de treuils, sont à motricité 4X4 et leurs ridelles sont pleines de terre à force de frotter contre ces parois de terre. Devant la profondeur de ces ornières, nous avons été obligés de passer sur les cotés. De temps à autres, et lorsque la hauteur des ornières le permettait, Dom était obligé de changer de côté. Au fur et à mesure de notre progression, les habitants de Ranomena, rentrant de leurs occupations, commençaient à nous rejoindre. Heureusement car les passages sur les côtés de ce bourbier commençaient à se rétrécir d’une manière inquiétante. Dom, qui jusqu’à présent était très à l’aise commençait à mouiller sa petite culotte. Il y avait de quoi : le terrain était glissant et très étroit. Heureusement les habitant de Ranomena se faisait de plus en plus nombreux. Certains poussaient le quad par le travers pour permettre à Dom de ne pas déraper dans les ornières deux à trois mètres plus bas. Il y avait des passages si étroits qu’ils ont été obligés de tailler la montagne pour élargir la voie pour permettre au quad de passer. D’autres le poussaient pour lui permettre de franchir les obstacles. Dom était de moins en moins à l’aise…. Et cela se comprenait très bien… A chaque passage délicat qu’il arrivait à franchir, les habitants de Ranomena criaient leur joie. Ambiance fabuleuse car ils était bien une cinquantaine qui l’ovationnait à chaque obstacle franchi. Nous sommes arrivés à Ranomena à la nuit tombée suivis par toute cette foule en délire qui courrait et criait derrière le quad. Quelle entrée triomphale. De plus, un quad est une chose inconnue ici : c’est le premier qu’il voyait. Imaginez des vazahas (étrangers) qui arrivent sur un tel engin jusqu’à leur village.
Et lorsque Dom descend de son quad, détache ses béquilles et commence à marcher, un silence respectueux s’installe. Une chose qui a impressionné Dom, c’est le regard et le respect de ces gens vis-à-vis d’une personne handicapée. Pour avoir un peu voyagé avec Dom, je peux vous assurer que le regard porté sur lui et complètement différent de ceux qu’il peut subir en France…
A Madagascar, rien n’est gratuit et pour récompenser tous ceux qui vous aident, il faut les payer : au total, nous avons distribué du vola (argent) à 36 personnes. Nous avons également donné quelques récompenses aux plus laborieux, tels chemises chaudes ou autres….
Philippe qui est passé déjà plusieurs fois dans ce magnifique village de Ranomena à été discuter avec le chef du village pour lui demander l’autorisation de camper dans le village (première chose à faire lorsque vous voulez dormir dans un village : demander au chef l’autorisation de dormir et lui donner du vola pour le dédommager). Afin de nous éviter de monter le bivouac, le chef nous a proposé de dormir dans la salle de classe (il y a deux salles de classe dans ce village). Vu notre état et l’heure avancée, nous ne nous sommes pas fait priés…
Pendant ce temps-la, des malgaches nous préparaient le diner avec le blé que nous avions amené et le poulet que nous avons acheté sur place.
Dom était sur le cul !!! Autant de stress et d’adrénaline en même temps, il était épuisé mais content. Il était très à l’aise sur le quad depuis le début du raid mais là, le doute s’était manifesté : il venait de comprendre que ce n’était pas une promenade de promène-couillons mais un raid d’extrême…
JOUR 5 ( ) RANOMENA MAROLALANANA
Départ à 7 h OO dans un village qui est déjà réveillé et qui vous attend dans la cour de l’école. Après une bonne nuit de repos et un petit déjeuner consistant, nous reprenons la piste. Dom est inquiet car les habitants du village lui ont dit qu’il y avait encore quelques passages difficiles. Nous décidons, par sécurité, des nous faire accompagner par cinq personnes et quatre de plus en vélo. Judicieux choix, car nous nous retrouvons à nouveau dans des bourbiers, moins important, mais quand même impressionnants. La piste est jonchée de cailloux ; et nos poignets souffrent des incessantes trépidations de la machine. Nos doigts sont scotchés sur les freins jusqu’à en avoir des crampes. La descente dure 12 km, et nous souhaitons très fort qu’aucune roue du vélo ne se fasse la malle. A midi, nous avons pique-niqué à Ambinanindrano et poursuivi notre chemin jusqu’à Marolalanana ou nous avons rejoint Gilbert :ici depuis deux jours pour réparer deux ponts qui étaient cassés
JOUR 6 ( ) MAROLALANANA SANDRATSY
Départ à 6h Gilbert a contacté les propriétaires de deux pirogues sur lesquelles nous chargerons le Quad. Deux roues dans chaque pirogue, couplés par deux madriers pour en assurer l’assise sur l’eau. La traversée se passe à merveille. Comme d’hab, nous avons des spectateurs et les commentaires fusent en direct. Nous partons ensuite en direction d’Ambohimanga Atsimo 20 km de là où nous déjeunerons le midi ! Nous avons renvoyé deux porteurs sur 4, et avons conservé Gilbert qui continue le voyage avec nous Il est très utile car c’est un gars démerdeur qui vous répare un pont en quelques minutes avec sa hache et sa scie. Il est aussi capable de vous élargir un passage avec une pelle en quelques minutes. Il aide également le quad a passer en faisant contre-poids ou en le poussant. C’est un aide précieuse. Nous passons un bac à Fiadanana, 7 km après Ambohimanga Atsimo. Celui-ci est épique. C’est un radeau constitué de feuilles de ravinala (arbres du voyageur) reliées entre elles on ne sait comment. L’eau défile sous les pieds et Didier est passé au travers. Le quad a réussit, tout seul à franchir la rivière sur ce radeau de fortune, accompagné du passeur avec sa longue perche.Il nous reste une petite portion de km avant d’arriver à Sandratsy pour le bivouac, où nous dormirons dans l’église en plein air.
JOUR 7 ( ) SANDRATSY IFANADIANA
Départ à 6h00. Nous progressons en direction Tsaratanana ou nous pique-niquons à midi dans le rue principale du village, toujours entourés par une foule de gamins intrigués par cette étrange machine conduite par un paraplégique. Nous retrouvons enfin notre véhicule d’assistance.
Un exploit dans l’exploit, c’est Bourdy qui a assuré l’assistance en VTT : il faut savoir que le seul sport pratiqué par Bourdy, c’est la sieste…Après quelques passages difficiles ou le quad s’est encore embourbé, nous dormirons à Ifanadiana, au Tropic Hotel ou la douche a été très appréciée. Dom s’est à nouveau cassé la gueule dedans.
JOUR 8 ( )IFANADIANA IKONGO
Départ à 6 h 30 en direction de Tolongona ou nous avons mangé de délicieuses saucisses. La piste se déroule entre de magnifiques vallées verdoyantes arrosées de rivières et de cascades. La terre est riche ici, et les cultures abondent.Dom est de plus en plus à l’aise sur le quad et il a repris confiance en lui. Encore quelques angoisses lors de franchissements de ponts qui sont parfois très hauts et branlants. Le soir nous dormirons chez Coco le chinois à Ikongo (Fort Carnot). Coco est hôtelier, restaurateur, vendeur de pierres, de vanille et, à mon avis, tout ce qui peu lui rapporter de l’argent. Un sacré personnage. Lorsque nous lui avons fait voir quelques passages difficiles sur l’ordinateur, il nous a dit que dans sa région il n’y avait pas de passages aussi durs, que cela n’existait pas dans sa région. Plusieurs fois il nous l’a répété…et pourtant !!!!
JOUR 9 ( )IKONGO AMBOLOMADINIKA
Nous partons vers 13 heures car l’étape du jour est facile, en principe…Lorsque nous arrivons à la rivière, nous devons laisser la voiture. Nous déchargeons le 4X4 pour transporter les VTT et le matériel d’assistance. Nous serons donc quatre : Dom, Philippe, Bourdy et Gilbert.
Nous traversons la rivière dans une coque en ferraille ou le quad, porté avec l’aide de quelques malgaches présents rentre à peine en travers. Il faut quand même ne pas trop bouger car l’embarcation ressemble d’avantage à une écope qu’un bateau. Nous sommes confiant. Nous prenons des pirogues classiques, taillées dans les troncs d’arbres pour passer le reste du matériel.
Le souvenir du dernier trip vélo nous rappelle le mal de cul supporté et c’est vraiment sans grande joie que nous enfourchons de nouveau les selles. Normalement l’étape sera plus facile que la portion Ranomena Ifanadiana.
Les paysages sont magnifiques et croisons une multitude de gens. Certains, effrayés, s’enfuient en courant. Il faut dire que Dom, avec son casque et son étrange machine ne passe pas inaperçu. Ici, il n’y a aucun véhicule à moteur qui passe, mise à part une ou deux motos dans la semaine. Dès que les malgaches entendent un bruit de moteur, nous les voyons accourir et se poser le long de la piste pour voir qui arrive. Les réactions sont aussi variées que surprenantes. Nous avons vu une mère paniquée en voyant Dom sortir des bonbons de sa poche pour les offrir à des enfants. Elle est venu en courant et en criant pour arracher ses enfants qui étaient à côté du quad, tétanisés. Et nous arrivons très vite à Ambolomadinika pour le bivouac. En brousse, il faut avoir affaire au chef de village ; chez qui nous demandons l’autorisation de camper. Philippe est déjà venu ici pour traverser le corridor forestier qui relie Ikongo à Ambalavao en trois jours de marche. Il retrouve d’anciens porteurs. Une équipe locale s’agglutine autour de nous. On a envie d’être peinard car on est fatigué. Diplomatie oblige ; on poursuit la visite en bande jusqu’à l’hôpital, très mal équipé, et l’école, dans le même cas. Gilbert nous prépare le repas
JOUR 10 ( )AMBOLOMADINIKA IFANIREA
Chargés comme des mules, nous partons vers 7 heures en direction d’Ifanerina. Cette étape devait être plutôt relaxe. T’as qu’à croire. Des ponts, des guets, des passages étroits. Que de temps perdu. En plus, la piste est vraiment défigurée, étroite, jonchée d’obstacles ( troncs d’arbres qu’il faut scier – ponts inexistants…) et les côtes en vtt sont raides. Plusieurs fois nous avons maudit ces VTT qui donnent mal au cul. Au cours de cette étape, nous avons croisé, chose exceptionnelle, deux fumba (rituels). Cette cérémonie concerne un enterrement. Les proches portent le défunt dans un lamba (drap) qui est dans une civière fabriquée avec deux bambous. Tout le monde chante et faisant tourner le dépouille, portée par une vingtaine de personnes. Tout le monde suit le cortège et chantant et buvant pour l’emmener jusqu’au lieu de sépulture distant de quelques kilomètres du village. Les vapeurs d’alcool sortent de toutes les bouches. On emmène les marmites et la nourriture à cuire sur place. Ces gens nous ont bien aidé lors d’un passage très difficile ou nous avons du préparer le terrain pendant près d’une heure. Pendant ce temps là, ceux qui portaient le corps dansaient et chantaient autour de nous tandis que les autres nous aidaient à déplacer des pierres, des troncs d’arbres, de la terre…Merci encore à eux pour leur aide précieuse et surtout au roi malgache, famille du défunt, qui nous a accepté pendant un long moment au sein de cette procession.
Nous avons repris notre chemin, pique-niqué en cours de route pour arriver le soir, à la tombée de la nuit. Gilbert, qui avait crevé avec son vélo, était resté plusieurs kilomètres en arrière, sa chambre à air étant hors d’usage (quatrième crevaisons pour les VTT, zéro pour le quad), Dom en a acheté une à Ifanerina et a rebroussé chemin pour lui porter. La nuit était dejà tombée lorsqu’ils sont arrivés à l’école ou nous avons dormi dans la salle d’une classe (huit salles de classe à Ifanerina). Philippe et Bourdy sont un peu enrhumés. Nous supposons que cela vient de la chaleur dans les montées et du froid lors des descentes en VTT.
JOUR 11 ( )IFANIREA VOHIPENO
Départ d’Ifanerina à 7 heures. Nous avons rendez-vous au bord de la rivière à Angado avec le 4X4. Nous sommes fatigués par le VTT et Dom nous traine souvent avec le bout de remorquage (Merci à Chaoui de la bringuebale à St Denis d’Oléron). Heureusement le 4×4 a pu nous rejoindre plus tot que prévu et c’est avec un grand plaisir que nous chargeons les VTT sur le véhicule. Nous traversons la rivière à Angado sur un bateau passeur en ferraille dont le moteur ne fonctionne plus. Le 4X4 et le quad ont été chargés ainsi qu’une cargaison de sacs de cafés. Encore une heure d’écoulée mais nous sommes sereins. Nous en avons profité pour acheter un peu de vanille à un piroguier qui passait la (presque) par hasard… Nous nous sommes rendus ensuite à la mission catholique de Père Vincent ou nous avons rencontré le père /// qui s’occupe depuis neuf ans de ce centre d’hébergement pour handicapés, de tuberculeux, de pauvres, d’enfants malnutritionnés. Dom, qui avait apporté symboliquement des cannes anglaises et des embouts a été très touché par cette mission humanitaire. Voir autant de personnes handicapées avec une telle énergie, ça calme… et ça remet les pendules à l’heure. Demain nous devons y retourner pour les donner quelques habits ainsi que quelques paires de lunettes. Nous dormons ce soir à l’hotel Relax à Vohipeno,
JOUR 12 (171 km)VOHIPENO FARAFANGANA NOSY OMBY
Départ de l’hotel à 7h30. Nous avons rendez-vous avec le père Emeric pour lui remettre quelques chemises chaudes ainsi que quelques savon. Dom a été invite par le père Emeric dans son église, après la messe, pour le remercier d’avoir pu faire découvrir le quad à quelques handicapés ainsi que des cadeaux que nous lui avons offerts. Il lui a demandé également de raconter son histoire par rapport à son handicap. Nous avons été chaleureusement salués par tous les handicapés lors de notre départ. Nous avons ensuite pris pendant une heure, la plus belle route goudronnée de Madagascar qui relie Farafangana à Vaingaindrano puis repris la piste jusqu’à Nosy omby ou nous avons dîné un pantagruesque repas de poissons et fruits de mer et dormi chez Monsieur François. Il a ouvert un « misée » ou une multitude d’objets hétéroclites sont exposés. Cela va d’un objet local fabriqué artisanalement jusqu’à un morceau de voilier qui s’est échoué sur la plage. Plage ou une piscine naturelle (petite crique en bord de plage) est magnifiquement située.
Pour la petite histoire, nous étions ses deuxièmes clients. Pour l’addition, il nous a remis son « facturier » en nous disant de faire la facture nous-mêmes…
JOUR 13 (66 km)NOSY OMBY SANDRAVINANY
Départ à 7h00, direction le Sud avec quelques bacs à passer aujourd’hui. Nous commençons par le premier qui est composé de trois coques en fer soudées entre elles et sur lesquelles des madriers sont fixés. Dessus, deux voitures prennent place ainsi que la quad. Même procédé pour le second.
Dans l’après-midi, sur une piste de sable bordée d’arbres, Patou le chauffeur, n’a pu éviter un arbre qui était coupé et dont la cîme, couchée parmi les autres arbres dépassait à deux mêtres du sol : résultat, en percutant cet obstacle, le galerie s’est arrachée du toit et s’est retrouvée chargée de nos bagages et de nos trois vélos au beau milieu de la piste. Après deux heures de bricolage avec des morceaux de bois coupés dans la forêt, nous avons pu repartir avec une galerie rafistolée qui est encore plus solide qu’à l’origine. Notre étape nous amènera jusqu’à Sandra Vinany après une piste difficile ou de gros trous dus à la pluie nous obligent à passer à la vitesse d’une cagouille. Nous passerons la nuit à côté de l’école, non loin de l’estuaire. Petit village tranquille de pêcheurs, nous passerons une bonne nuit dans ce bivouac.
JOUR 14 (98 km)SANDRAVINANY MANAMBATO
Nous démarrons la journée par emprunter des pistes qui nous entraineront dans la mauvaise direction. Cul de sac devant un oasis où la piste s’arrête, petite virée vers l’est et la mer, alors que nous devions aller au sud ; nous quettons tel des sioux la moindre âme humaine dans ce déserte de collines dénudées, afin d’avoir une info sur la piste réelle. Une fois sur nos rail, nous passerons une série de bacs (cinq aujourd’hui). Dans l’ordre celui de Befasy (ou nous avons été obligés de lui prêter notre batterie de rechange pour démarrer son bac ainsi que de lui donner quelques litres de gas-oil pour nous permettre de traverser cette rivière, ensuite celui de Maroroy (le moteur est remplacé par une corde tendue en travers de la rivière), puis celui d’Ampanibe, le bac « ballons », madriers fixés sur deux énormes zodiacs qui devaient autrefois servir à l’armée, vient ensuite celui d’Esama (bac ballons) puis celui de Manambato avec une coque en fer qui est tirée avec des cordes pour traverser.
Nous dormirons à Manambato ce soir. Aujourd’hui Dom est tombé dans une crevasse et le quad s’est renversé sur lui. Rien de grave, juste une petite frayeur pour tous ceux qui étaient dans le 4X4. Pour Dom, son seul souci était de remettre le quad sur ses roues car l’essence fuyait.
JOUR 15 MANAMBATO EVATRA
Nous suivons une piste bien tracée et bien bringuebalante pour nous rendre à Sainte Luce dans un premier temps où nous déjeunerons le midi, puis Evatra, le village touristique situé au nord de Fort Dauphin, où nous passerons la nuit en bungalows coco ; au bord du lac.
JOUR 16 EVATRA FORT DAUPHIN
JOUR 17 ET 18 FORT DAUPHIN
Repos bien mérité, révision du quad
prochaines nouvelles seront à TULEAR car pas de courant jusqu’à la-bas
manu



October 14th, 2007 at 13:15
Que les paysages soient beaux, que les corps soient solides et que le moral soit
toujours au beau fixe !!!J’ai hâte d’avoir des petites nouvelles …Gros bisous
d’encouragement ! Estelle
October 14th, 2007 at 13:18
ALORS TU T’ECLATES ?
BONNE PROMENADE BON COURAGE ET FAIS GAFFE AUX CROCOS
fifi
October 14th, 2007 at 19:22
La première partie à due en effet être assez difficile… Une journée de repos à fort Dauphin va vous faire le plus grand bien ! J’ai hate de voir les images !! Quel périple ! Par contre, comme promis, il ne faudra pas nécessairement mettre le turbo pour la dernière boucle sud… D’accord ptit Dom … Prends bien soin de toi. Bises. Estelle
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